Financial Budget Planner
What Can You Actually Afford to Protect?
Discretionary income is what is left from your monthly take-home pay after essential bills and existing commitments are paid. Calculate it in three steps: add up take-home pay for everyone in the household, subtract essential expenses such as housing, transport, groceries, childcare and healthcare, then subtract debt minimums and insurance premiums. What remains is discretionary.
This free budget calculator does that arithmetic, then reads it back: your needs, wants and savings split against the widely cited 50/30/20 rule of thumb, your savings rate, how many months your emergency fund would cover, and what any percentage you choose of the money left over works out to in dollars. It is ungated, there is no email step, and it does not tell you what to buy.
Nothing you type leaves this page.Every figure is calculated in your browser. No amount is sent to a server, logged, or stored anywhere except, if you choose, your own browser’s local storage on this device.
Budget calculator: find your discretionary income
Enter what comes in and what goes out. The page opens with example figures for a two-earner household so you can see a finished report immediately; change any field, or clear them all and work from your own statements. Every total updates as you type, and each section header carries its own subtotal so you can collapse the ones you have finished.
Money in
Take-home pay — what actually lands in the account after tax and payroll deductions.
Money out
Keeping a roof over your head. Skip escrowed lines if they are already inside the mortgage payment.
Getting to work and back. Average the irregular items across the year.
Groceries are essential. Restaurants and delivery are the part you control.
The contractual minimum only. Anything you pay above it belongs in Savings below.
Care you cannot skip, plus the medical costs you pay out of pocket.
Premiums already in force. Auto and homeowner's insurance sit in their own sections above.
Enter a YEARLY total. Divided by 12 so the once-a-year bills stop ambushing the budget.
Spread across the year that is $350 a month, already included in the totals.
Money you choose to spend. This is the bucket a budget can actually move.
Money you deliberately set aside or throw at a balance beyond its minimum.
Used only to work out your runway and how long it takes to reach three and six months.
Your budget report
Where the money goes
- Housing$3,15037%
- Transportation$1,02012%
- Food$1,17014%
- Debt minimums$4055%
- Childcare & health$1,13013%
- Insurance premiums$681%
- Annual bills (per month)$3504%
- Lifestyle$5807%
- Savings & extra payoff$5507%
Your split vs 50/30/20
50/30/20 is a widely cited budgeting rule of thumb, popularised by Elizabeth Warren and Amelia Warren Tyagi in All Your Worth (2005). It is a heuristic, not a standard, and no government agency publishes it as one.
| Bucket | You | Rule | Diff |
|---|---|---|---|
| Needs | 77% | 50% | +27 pts |
| Wants | 12% | 30% | -18 pts |
| Savings | 6% | 20% | -14 pts |
| Unallocated | 5% | — | — |
Needs = essentials plus debt minimums and insurance premiums. Wants = the lifestyle categories. Savings = deliberate transfers and extra debt payoff. Anything left over is shown separately as unallocated, because unspent money is only saved if you actually move it.
Building the emergency fund
| Target | Amount | Still needed | At $677/mo |
|---|---|---|---|
| 3 months of essentials | $20,469 | $11,469 | 16.9 mo |
| 6 months of essentials | $40,938 | $31,938 | 47.2 mo |
Build rate = your emergency savings transfer plus anything left unallocated. Three and six months are common reference points, not official targets; the CFPB suggests sizing the fund to the unexpected costs you have actually had.
If you committed part of the surplus to a fixed monthly premium
This is a budgeting range, not a recommendation. It shows what a percentage you choose works out to in dollars. It cannot know your goals, your household, or what any policy would cost, so it does not suggest a product, a coverage amount, or a percentage that is right for you.
| Applied to | Base | 20% of it |
|---|---|---|
| Unallocated surplus | $477 | $95 |
| Discretionary income | $2,077 | $415 |
| Premiums you already pay | $68 | — |
The two bases differ because discretionary income still has your lifestyle spending inside it. Committing a share of discretionary income rather than of surplus means cutting something in the lifestyle categories to pay for it.
What this reveals
- After $6,350 of essential bills and $473 of debt minimums and insurance premiums, $2,077 a month is discretionary — the part of take-home pay you decide what to do with.
- $477 a month is unallocated — it is not in a bill, not in the lifestyle categories, and not in a savings transfer. Money without a name is the money that usually disappears.
- Needs take 77% of the money you have accounted for, against the 50% the 50/30/20 rule of thumb assumes. A high needs share is normal in an expensive housing market and on a lower income; it means the rule's arithmetic does not fit you, not that you are doing it wrong.
- Your savings rate is 12% of take-home pay counting $550 of deliberate transfers plus $477 left unspent. Counting only the deliberate transfers it is 6%.
- Your emergency fund covers 1.3 months of the $6,823 you must pay each month. The CFPB does not publish a target amount — it points to the size of the unexpected costs you have actually had.
- Annual and periodic bills of $4,200 a year are being spread at $350 a month. Left out of a monthly budget entirely, that is the amount that turns up as a surprise.
- Take-home pay is 77% of the gross figure you entered. The difference is tax withholding plus payroll deductions such as retirement contributions and your health premium, which is why budgeting from a gross salary overstates what you have.
These are descriptions of the figures you entered. They are not financial, tax, or legal advice.
Private by design.Every number above is calculated in your browser. Nothing you type is sent to a server, and this page makes no network request carrying your figures. The optional saved copy lives in your browser’s local storage on this device only — use “Forget saved data” to delete it.
Want a second set of eyes on the numbers above? A strategy call walks through the budget line by line — no cost, no obligation, and nothing you have typed here is shared with anyone.
Book a strategy callGross, net and discretionary: three numbers people keep confusing
Most budgets fail on arithmetic before they fail on discipline, because the income figure at the top is the wrong one. Gross, net and discretionary describe three different amounts, and only the third is the money a plan can actually move.
Gross income
Your pay before anything is removed. It is the number on the offer letter, on the loan application, and in almost every conversation about salary. It is also the number you never see. Lenders use it deliberately: the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau defines the debt-to-income ratio as “all your monthly debt payments divided by your gross monthly income”, which is why the payment a lender approves can be one you cannot comfortably make.
Net, or take-home, pay
What lands in the account. Gross minus federal and state withholding, Social Security and Medicare tax, and payroll deductions: retirement contributions, your share of the health premium, HSA or FSA money, disability cover, dues. Two people with identical salaries can take home very different amounts, and a 401(k) contribution is a savings decision that has already been made before the deposit arrives. Enter take-home in this calculator, and do not enter payroll retirement contributions again as a savings transfer.
Discretionary income
Take-home minus essentials minus existing commitments. It is the only figure that answers what you could start or stop doing this month. Be careful with the term outside a budget: federal income-driven student loan repayment plans and some benefit programs define discretionary income by their own statutory formula tied to the federal poverty guideline, so the number on a repayment notice will not match the one here and is not meant to.
Fixed, variable and periodic expenses
Expenses behave in three different ways, and a budget that treats them all as one monthly number is wrong twice a year. Sorting them by behaviour, not by category, is what makes the total hold up.
Fixed
Same amount, same date: rent or mortgage, car payment, insurance premiums, childcare, debt minimums, subscriptions. Easy to record and hard to change quickly, which is why the fixed block sets the floor under everything else. A household whose fixed costs already exceed take-home pay cannot budget its way out inside a month.
Variable
Recurs every month, different size each time: groceries, fuel, utilities, medical copays, repairs. These are where a budget is usually wrong, because people enter a good month. Pull three months of statements and use the highest, not the average — a variable expense budgeted at its best month is a shortfall waiting to happen.
Periodic: the annual bills that wreck budgets
Real, predictable, and absent from eleven monthly budgets out of twelve. Auto insurance paid every six months. Vehicle registration and inspection. HOA assessments. Tax preparation. Professional licences and dues. Holidays, birthdays, back-to-school, camps, the annual vet visit. None of them is a surprise, yet all of them arrive as one, because a monthly budget has nowhere to put them. The fix is arithmetic, not willpower: total each one for the year, divide by twelve, and hold that amount in a separate account. The calculator above has a dedicated section for yearly totals and spreads them across the month for you.
What belongs in each category, and whether it is essential
The line between essential and discretionary is where most budgets get argued about, so it is worth being explicit. Essential here means the bill continues whether or not you engage with it, and skipping it has a consequence beyond inconvenience. Discretionary means you could stop it inside one billing cycle without losing the house, the car, or your health cover.
| Category | What belongs in it | Treated as |
|---|---|---|
| Rent or mortgage | The payment itself, plus escrowed tax and insurance if they are bundled into it | Essential |
| Property tax & homeowner's insurance | Only if you pay them separately from the mortgage; otherwise they are already counted | Essential |
| Utilities | Power, gas, water, sewer, trash, internet, mobile phone | Essential |
| Home maintenance | Filters, repairs, lawn, pest control — average the year and divide by twelve | Essential (variable) |
| Transportation | Car payment, auto insurance, fuel, tolls, transit fares, registration, maintenance | Essential |
| Groceries | Food eaten at home, plus household supplies, cleaning products and toiletries | Essential (variable) |
| Restaurants & delivery | Eating out, takeaway, coffee, work lunches, food delivery fees | Discretionary |
| Debt minimum payments | The contractual minimum on cards, student loans, personal loans, medical plans | Essential commitment |
| Extra debt payoff | Anything paid above the minimum — this is a savings decision, not a bill | Savings |
| Childcare & school | Daycare, after-school, tuition, fees, required supplies, court-ordered support paid | Essential |
| Healthcare | Your share of the health premium, copays, prescriptions, dental, vision, therapy | Essential |
| Insurance premiums | Life, disability, long-term care, umbrella, pet — policies already in force | Essential commitment |
| Annual & periodic bills | Anything billed yearly or twice a year: registration, some insurance, dues, tax prep | Essential (periodic) |
| Subscriptions | Streaming, software, cloud storage, apps, boxes — cancellable within one billing cycle | Discretionary |
| Entertainment, hobbies, travel | Tickets, gym, hobbies, holidays, weekends away, seasonal and gift spending | Discretionary |
| Shopping & personal care | Clothing beyond replacement, grooming, gifts, pets beyond food and vet care | Discretionary |
| Retirement & savings transfers | IRA and after-tax retirement contributions, emergency fund transfers, 529, brokerage | Savings |
For a sense of scale, the Bureau of Labor Statistics Consumer Expenditure Survey put average annual expenditures per consumer unit at $78,535 for 2024, of which housing was $26,266 (33.4%), transportation $13,318 (17.0%), food $10,169 (12.9%) and healthcare $6,197 (7.9%), against average income before taxes of $104,207 (BLS Consumer Expenditures — 2024). Those are national averages across every household size and income level, so they are a reference point, not a target.
The 50/30/20 rule, and where it breaks down
The 50/30/20 rule splits after-tax income into 50% needs, 30% wants and 20% savings. It was popularised by Elizabeth Warren and Amelia Warren Tyagi in All Your Worth (2005). Its value is that it is memorable and forces savings into the plan from the start rather than treating it as whatever survives the month. It is a rule of thumb, not a standard: no agency publishes it, no lender applies it, and it has no adjustment for household size, local costs, or income.
Where it breaks at lower incomes
Needs are not proportional to income. Rent, a car, groceries and childcare cost roughly what they cost, so as income falls their share rises. A household where housing alone takes 40% of take-home pay cannot reach 50% needs by budgeting, and being told to hit 20% savings while the needs bucket is at 75% is not useful information. The honest reading of a needs-heavy split is a cost-structure problem, and it is usually solved by changing one large fixed cost — housing or transportation — not by trimming the small ones.
Where it breaks at higher incomes
The rule caps ambition at the top. A household whose needs genuinely run at 30% of take-home pay has no reason to spend 30% on wants and save only 20%; the rule would licence lifestyle inflation that a 40% savings rate would otherwise have prevented. High earners also hit a definitional problem the rule ignores: for someone with substantial payroll deductions, a large share of saving already happened before take-home pay was calculated, so the 20% is measured against a base that already had savings removed from it. Read the comparison in the calculator as a diagnostic of your cost structure, not a score.
How to size an emergency fund
Size it against essential monthly outgo, not against income and not against total spending. If income stopped, discretionary spending would stop with it; what continues is housing, utilities, transport, food, insurance premiums and debt minimums. That figure is the burn rate, and the calculator uses it for both the runway and the three- and six-month targets.
There is no official number. The CFPB’s guide to building an emergency fund declines to prescribe an amount, advising instead that you consider the most common unexpected expenses you have actually had and what they cost, and noting that even a small amount provides some security. Three and six months are conventions worth knowing, not rules. Adjust for how replaceable your income is: two salaried earners in different industries carry less income risk than one earner on commission, and a household with a high fixed-cost floor needs more months than one that could cut deeply in a crisis.
Keep it somewhere boring and reachable — a separate savings or money market account at an insured institution, not the account the debit card draws from and not somewhere a market can be down on the day you need it. If you are choosing between building the fund and clearing a high-rate balance, the debt payoff calculator shows what the interest is actually costing you per month, which is the number that settles the argument.
How to budget irregular or 1099 income
Budget from a floor, not an average. Take the lowest month of the past twelve — or the average of the three worst — and build the essential budget on that. Everything above the floor is variable income to be assigned when it arrives, not spent in advance. In a strong month the surplus does three jobs in order: refills the buffer the weak months drained, funds the annual and periodic bills, then goes to savings or debt.
Two amounts have to come off the top before any of that, because nobody withholds them for you. Self-employment tax is 15.3% of net earnings, made up of 12.4% for Social Security and 2.9% for Medicare, and it applies once net earnings from self-employment reach $400. Income tax is separate, and the IRS requires estimated tax payments in four periods across the year from individuals who expect to owe $1,000 or more when the return is filed. Move a fixed percentage into a separate account the day money arrives and treat that account as somebody else’s. What you enter as take-home pay in this calculator should be what is left after that transfer.
Commission and bonus income follows the same logic. Budget the base, treat the variable part as unscheduled, and decide its job before it lands.
What the affordability guide does and does not do
The last panel in the calculator takes a percentage you choose and shows what it comes to in dollars, against two different bases: your unallocated surplus, and your discretionary income. It is deliberately not a recommendation. It names no product, suggests no coverage amount, and does not imply that committing anything is the right move.
The reason both bases are shown is that the difference between them is the whole point. Surplus is money that currently has no job, so committing part of it changes nothing else in the budget. Discretionary income still has your lifestyle spending inside it, so committing a share of that means something in the wants column has to shrink. A fixed monthly premium is a commitment that behaves like a bill: it is easy to start and awkward to stop, and it should be sized against money that will still be there in a thin month.
What no calculator can supply is the other half of the question — who depends on your income, what would still need paying if it stopped, what coverage already exists, and what any of it would actually cost you at your age and health. Cash flow tells you what is available. It cannot tell you what is needed.
Where this fits with the other calculators
This is a cash flow tool: it measures money moving through a month. Two related questions need different tools, and using the wrong one is a common source of confusion.
- Financial Inventory Calculator — the balance sheet. What you own and what you owe at a single moment: net worth, liquidity, and how your investment balances split across tax treatment. Balances, not flows. A household can have a strong balance sheet and negative cash flow, or the reverse.
- Debt Payoff Calculator — what to do with the surplus this page finds, if debt is where it should go. It models payoff order and the interest saved.
The natural order is this page first, the inventory second. Cash flow tells you what you can commit; the balance sheet tells you what would happen if you stopped being able to.
How this calculator works
Every output is arithmetic you can check by hand. Nothing is projected, no growth rate is applied, and no assumption is made about anything you did not type.
Show the formulas and definitions
Take-home pay = earner 1 + earner 2 + other monthly income. The optional gross figure is used only to show take-home as a percentage of gross; it is never added to any total.
Essential expenses = housing + transportation + groceries + childcare, healthcare and family support + one twelfth of your essential annual bills.
Existing commitments = minimum debt payments + insurance premiums already in force.
Discretionary income= take-home − essential expenses − existing commitments. This is the headline figure.
Wants = restaurants and delivery + the lifestyle categories + one twelfth of your seasonal and gift spending. Savings = retirement contributions made from take-home pay + emergency transfers + other savings + extra debt payoff above the minimum.
Unallocated= take-home − (essentials + commitments + wants + savings). If it is negative the page reports a shortfall instead of a surplus.
50/30/20 comparison. Needs = essentials + commitments. Wants = the wants total. Savings = deliberate savings transfers. Shares are taken over take-home pay, with anything unallocated shown as a fourth segment; if spending exceeds take-home pay the shares are taken over total outgo instead, so the bar always sums to 100%.
Savings rate= (savings transfers + unallocated surplus) ÷ take-home pay. The secondary figure counts deliberate transfers only.
Emergency runway= current emergency fund ÷ (essentials + commitments). The three- and six-month targets multiply that same monthly burn rate, and the time to reach them divides the remaining gap by your emergency transfer plus any unallocated surplus.
Affordability range = the percentage you set, applied to your unallocated surplus and, separately, to your discretionary income. The percentage is an input, never a suggestion.
Every division is guarded: a zero or blank denominator returns a dash rather than a NaN or an infinite result. Entries are treated as positive amounts and capped so the arithmetic stays finite.
Frequently asked questions
What is discretionary income?
Discretionary income is the money left from your take-home pay once essential expenses and existing commitments are paid. Essentials are the bills that keep the household running: housing, utilities, transportation, groceries, childcare and healthcare. Commitments are contractual obligations you cannot cancel inside a month, chiefly minimum debt payments and insurance premiums already in force. Everything left after those two subtractions is discretionary — it is the money you decide what to do with, and it is the only part of a paycheque a budget can genuinely redirect. Note that lenders and federal student loan programs use their own, narrower statutory definitions of discretionary income, so a figure from a repayment plan will not match this one.
How do I calculate my discretionary income?
Add the monthly take-home pay of everyone in the household, plus any other regular income such as rent received or side work. Subtract essential expenses: rent or mortgage, property tax and insurance if they are not escrowed, utilities, transportation, groceries, childcare, healthcare, and one twelfth of any essential bill you pay annually. Then subtract existing commitments: minimum payments on every debt, and the premiums on policies already in force. The remainder is your monthly discretionary income. Use take-home pay rather than salary — the gap between the two is tax withholding plus payroll deductions, and budgeting from gross overstates what you have.
What is the 50/30/20 rule?
The 50/30/20 rule is a budgeting rule of thumb that splits after-tax income into 50% needs, 30% wants and 20% savings and debt payoff above the minimum. It was popularised by Elizabeth Warren and Amelia Warren Tyagi in their 2005 book All Your Worth: The Ultimate Lifetime Money Plan. It is a heuristic for getting a first budget on paper, not a standard: no government agency publishes it, no lender uses it, and it does not adjust for household size, local housing costs or income level. Treat a large gap between your split and the benchmark as information about your cost structure rather than as a failing grade.
How much emergency fund do I need?
There is no official figure. The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau explicitly declines to prescribe an amount, advising instead that you think about the most common unexpected expenses you have actually had and what they cost, and noting that even a small amount provides some security. Three and six months of essential expenses are the reference points most commonly repeated, and this calculator shows both, but they are conventions rather than rules. The variable that matters most is how stable and how replaceable your income is: a two-earner household in steady salaried work carries a different risk than a single earner on commission or contract.
How much should I spend on insurance?
No agency or regulator publishes a correct percentage, and any single figure would be wrong for most households. What can be said honestly is arithmetic: a premium is a fixed monthly commitment, so it has to come out of money that is genuinely uncommitted, and if it comes out of discretionary income instead it displaces something you currently spend. That is why this calculator makes the percentage an input you set rather than a number it hands you. The right amount depends on who depends on your income, what would still need paying if it stopped, and what coverage you already have — none of which a budget tool can see.
What is the difference between gross income and take-home pay?
Gross income is your pay before anything is removed. Take-home pay, also called net pay, is what reaches your bank account after federal and state income tax withholding, Social Security and Medicare tax, and payroll deductions such as retirement plan contributions, health insurance premiums, HSA or FSA contributions and union dues. The gap is often a fifth to a third of gross, which is why a budget built on a salary figure runs short every month. Budget from the deposit, not the offer letter. If your retirement contributions come out of payroll, they are already missing from take-home pay and should not be entered again as a savings transfer.
How do I budget on an irregular or 1099 income?
Budget from a conservative baseline rather than an average. Take the lowest month of the past twelve, or the average of the three worst, and build the essential budget on that; treat everything above it as variable income to be allocated when it arrives. Two amounts have to come off the top before anything else. Self-employment tax is 15.3% of net earnings — 12.4% for Social Security and 2.9% for Medicare — and is owed once net earnings from self-employment reach $400. On top of that, income tax is not withheld for you: the IRS requires estimated tax payments in four periods during the year if you expect to owe $1,000 or more at filing. Setting a fixed percentage aside in a separate account the day money arrives is what stops the quarterly bill from becoming an emergency.
Is this budget calculator private?
Yes. Every figure is calculated in your browser by JavaScript on the page. No amount you type is transmitted to a server, and the page makes no network request containing your data. If you leave the tab, the values you entered are written to your browser's local storage on that device only, and the Forget saved data button deletes them. Sharing the link copies your figures into the URL so someone else can open the same result — so only share it deliberately.
Assumptions, limitations and disclaimer
- The calculator uses only the figures you enter. It applies no inflation adjustment, no growth rate, and no tax calculation, and it does not project anything forward.
- It does not compute your withholding. If you enter a gross figure it is used for one comparison only; take-home pay must come from your own pay statement.
- Where a category is essential and where it is discretionary is a judgement, and this page applies one consistent set. A different classification produces a different 50/30/20 split.
- 50/30/20 is a rule of thumb from a 2005 book, not a regulation, a lending standard, or a benchmark published by any agency. The comparison describes a gap; it does not grade you.
- Three and six months of expenses are common reference points for an emergency fund, not official targets. The CFPB does not publish an amount.
- The affordability panel converts a percentage you choose into dollars. It is not a recommendation, not a suitability assessment, and not a quote. It does not name a product or suggest a coverage amount, because it cannot know your goals, your dependants, or your health.
- BLS figures quoted above are national averages for the 2024 reference year across all household sizes and income levels. They describe the population, not you.
- The page opens with example figures for illustration. They are not typical, recommended, or benchmark values.
This is an estimate, not advice. The results above are an informational illustration based on figures you supplied. They are not a quote, not an offer of insurance, and not a substitute for advice from a qualified professional about your own situation.
